An island called Biriuchy Ostriv is in many respects inferior to the famous nature preserve Askania-Nova with its only virgin European steppe dating from Scythian times if not earlier. Now it is an established fact. Two small worlds, similar and distinct at the same time. Askania’s centennial will be marked internationally. Biriuchy Ostriv’s jubilees have passed for the most part unnoticed, like water after a quick downpour.
Last year the island suffered a devastating onslaught by the Sea of Azov, the waves almost washing away Sadky, the central premises of the Azov-Syvash National Preserve. The buildings were saved by concrete breakwaters built under Khrushchev who favored the place as a fishing-hunting retreat (on each such visit the sea breeze would carry acrid gunpowder smoke and the delicious smell of roasting meat accompanied by clinking shot glasses).
For a long time since then Biriuchy Ostriv was among the traditional retreats for Party and government leaders along with their sycophants.
Volodymyr Zubkov, manager of the preserve, says such top-level parties ended only recently, leaving him with prematurely gray hair. Still, he does not think that civilized hunting trips should be banned, because nature and man have combined efforts, making the island an ideal place for it.
WOLF LAND WITHOUT WOLVES
Not a single wolf has ever settled on this island, neither before nor after the Soviets. Its territory is 6,000 hectares, surrounded by sand dunes from the sea and fenced off from the Utliutsky estuary by countless shallow ponds, bays, and spits. Even people found living here not easy.
Sadky, however, looks like an oasis. Here one finds everything: poplar-lined alleys, ancient olive and acacia groves, thorn and berry bushes, even vineyards. Every fall the island is invaded by birds because it is a natural stopover on their migration route. The trees are swarming with screech owls, blackcaps, nightingales.
“Last fall we had especially many gray and white geese and ducks,” the preserve manager continues and then dwells on pheasants, his favorite topic. There are more than a thousand now but hunting tickets are seldom issued. The birds are too beautiful! Of late, Biriuchy Ostriv has been frequented by such rare species as crane and golden eagle.
However, deer are the true pride of the island. Now they are expecting a very sizable addition to the population. There are about a thousand of these proud and graceful animals, along with fallow-deer. And countless moufflon. All these are immigrants of course and the wild sheep for want of their native highland hide away in remote spots, guided by their powerful instinct for self-preservation.
ALARMING FACTOR
Until recently the Azov-Syvash Preserve had the status of a “hunting preserve,” meaning that Biriuchy Ostriv was the sole property of the party elite. Its manager Zubkov has spent much time and energy fighting the “true Leninists” and their privileges. He has lost much in terms of nerve cells and health but stood his ground. Now the preserve is in the public domain but access can be afforded only by people of means. Hunting tickets are quite expensive: Hr 360 for deer; Hr 200 for fallow-deer; Hr 150 for moufflon. And this is only for females. Males cost more (e.g. Hr 800-6,000 for a deer). The costs vary depending on antlers and this trophy is especially favored by foreigners, but few have visited lately and not with bulging wallets. Last year six Germans left about DM 20,000. Local rangers say that “new Ukrainians” prove much better customers. Senior ranger Serhiy Oleko is short and to the point: “Hunting tickets help balance the animal population and allow us to earn good money, considering our general poverty. Last year’s proceeds allowed us to spend half the amount on fodder, fuel, and materials.”
“Party bosses mostly came here not to hunt but to party,” recalls Volodymyr Zubkov. “Hunting was done by the rangers and they did it by driving as there were too many animals. Driving? They would man two or three jeeps and send them forth roaring, scaring every living thing within earshot, and then just keep firing. This was like a witches Sabbath...”
Then there were no more witches Sabbaths and Biruchy Ostriv and other smaller islands on the Syvash River could heave a breath of relief. Now wild life could abide by its own laws rather than man’s whims. Zubkov sounds pleased with himself: “Last year I drove a herd of deer and counted 92 fawns.”
GOD BLESS YOU, BIRIUCHY ISLAND
May and June are the best time of the year on the island. Mat-grass, alfalfa, and fescue cover the earth in a thick carpet playing with rainbow colors under the sun. Now and then a roe looks cautiously out of reeds watching for foxes, guarding her offspring and then a hare family jumps out to play in the sun...
Azov-Syvash personnel have their chores to tend, fixing their old vehicles, arguing over plans to attract wealthy hunters, because money is always a major problem. Ukraine is not America where nature preserves are financed by the authorities. “We want to become completely self-supporting,” Zubkov admits. Running this unique preserve, he has many plans, he wants to breathe new life into this wealth of marshland and water, with small islands abounding in tulips and snakes. Previously, all this was watched by rangers working in shifts. Now they have several rangers’ families living here constantly, separated from social and economic crises by several miles of shallow water.
In fact, one can see the sights on Biriuchy Ostriv without leaving Kyiv or, say, Vienna, as there are four video cassettes available. But it is best to drop by, of course.
Henichesk-Kherson






