An English Mansion in Kyiv’s Petrivka

Last Friday saw the launch of Atelier 1, a new Ukrainian designer boutique at Fashion Lab Gallery located in the Alta Center in Kyiv’s Petrivka shopping area. Atelier 1 is different from the nearby clothing stores of Viktor Anisimov, Oleksandr Hapchuk, and Diana Dorozhkina in that it is a multi-brand store. The choice of labels sold at the store has been left to David Foley, the store’s creative director. Foley is a legend in the international fashion industry. He presides over the International Color Authority and works as a creative director for major British fashion stores. The new boutique will feature his exclusive catwalk collection designed for Sensus Studio. Mr. Foley is also Head of Fashion at the Oxford Media and Business School. He has been following Ukrainian fashion closely for a year. “I was impressed by your designers’ level of creativity,” Foley said at the opening. “I needed to create a platform for my work in Ukraine. That’s why I selected these three designers.”

The individuals in question are the three designers who most impressed the fashion guru in Ukraine and who will determine the boutique’s concept in the near future. They are Lilia Pustovit, the duo of Zemskova and Vorozhbyt, and the young designer Andre Tan. Foley believes that Lilia Pustovit’s collections are designed on a wonderful international level. Andre Tan impressed the Brit with his surprising designs and avant-garde touch. Foley considers the clothing by Zemskova and Vorozhbyt an integral element in the image of a smart and philosophically minded woman. Incidentally, after a whole year spent in Ukraine the Brit has yet to learn to pronounce their names correctly, and simply refers to them as the “two ladies.” Foley has strict requirements for designers who want to join this trio. (The store also offers a limited selection of clothes by a fourth designer, Volodymyr Podolian). “I have to like them,” Foley says firmly but with a smile. He also shared his views of fashion trends in Ukraine, stressing that we are lucky to be witnessing the birth of strong domestic brands, something that England or Italy experienced long ago. The Day had an opportunity to ask the visiting fashion expert several quick questions.

“How do you define Ukrainian style? How is it different from, say, English or French styles?”

“Good design is always good design. This boutique could easily be opened in either London or Paris. Good Ukrainian design can be present everywhere.”

“What are the chances that a similar boutique with the same labels will open in London?”

“This is the next stage. It took us one year to prepare the designers represented here for the opening of the store, to prepare them primarily in commercial terms.”

“You mentioned that Ukrainian designers are well prepared in creative terms. How prepared are they in technological terms?”

“If you take a look at the collections at our store, you will see that every model comes in a number of sizes. And the quality of manufacturing is also at a very high level.”

“Can you imagine a middle- class Englishwoman wearing clothing by Lilia Pustovit, for example?”

“Well, I don’t even have to try too hard to imagine this, because she has an absolutely realistic collection. By the way, I’m wearing one of her scarves. Creative people like us — designers and media representatives — would be pleased to wear such clothing both here and in London. The same goes for Andre Tan. I, for one, wouldn’t wear his clothing only for one reason: I’m too old for it. But, I repeat, women in England would be pleased to wear Lilia Pustovit’s designer clothing.”

“Do other designers have a chance of being showcased in your boutique?”

“The answer is simple. We selected those that we like. But this won’t lessen the chances of those who are not yet represented in our store. However, I am the one who does the selection, and I am very particular. Therefore, please knock on our door. We may possibly open it to you.”

Each designer prepared exclusive collections for the boutique. David designed the interior of Atelier 1, recreating the style of an English mansion’s drawing room. He used his own English and French antique furniture. The interior has elements of glass and unfinished rust-covered metal. This creates an atmosphere of egalitarianism and provides a very organic background for the collections. The prices are quite affordable, starting at $100. Sizes range from 42 to 48. According to Foley, he came to the Ukrainian market not for fun but with a definitive commercial interest. In the future he plans to expand Atelier 1 into a nationwide chain of stores. He plans to open similar boutiques in other major Ukrainian cities.