Ukrainians on top of the world

The dream of many generations of Himalayan climbers from different countries of the world has come true. On May 19, 2007, at 9:30 a.m. Nepalese time (6:30 a.m. Kyiv time) the six-man Ukrainian alpine team reached the top of Himal-Chuli Mountain (7,893 m.). This is the first time in the history of alpinism that the summit was conquered along the northeastern route. Until now, Japanese, Dutch, and Italian climbers and various international expeditions have tried without success to follow this route.

The Ukrainian climbers’ triumph is the result of intense preparatory work. Already in 2001, when our alpinists were making plans for the Himalayan expedition to Manasla (8,163 m.) they made certain that the technical complexity of the route to the summit of Himal-Chuli corresponded to the highest international levels. The data obtained as a result of a reconnaissance expedition in 2005 helped to determine the specific route.

During the preparations for the “Ukraine-Himalayas-2007” National Expedition the Ukrainian Federation of Alpinism and Mountain Climbing appointed the Odesa Alpine Club as the main organization. Thanks to the efforts of the federation’s president and expedition leader, Valentyn Symonenko, a team was put together with young and promising climbers, who are well-equipped veterans of past climbs.

The expedition began in Kyiv on April 7, 2007, and by April 13 the team had set up a base camp at an altitude of 3,600 meters in the gorge of Lidanda Glacier. They needed 30 days to go through the acclimatization process and complete the preparations for the climb. Four additional camps located at different altitudes were set up during this time without the help of Sherpas (high-altitude Nepalese porters) and without oxygen, which is a matter of principle exclusive to Ukrainian sportsmen.

On May 7 the members of the Ukrainian team Serhii Puhachov, Andrii Kyiko, Maksym Perevalov, Serhii Bublyk, Volodymyr Roshko, and Yurii Kylychenko set out for the decisive first climb along the northeastern wall of Himal-Chuli. Alpine-style, the group ascended the 1000-meter steep ice-snow wall, which has never been climbed, and set up the last intermediate camp at an altitude of 7,700 m.

On May 18 they ascended to the summit. Unfortunately, the attempt was unsuccessful. At 7,800 m the alpinists reached a sheer wall of rock and huge snow ledges. Because of an abrupt worsening of weather conditions — a snowfall — the Ukrainian climbers decided to return to the camp and repeat the attempt the next day.

The morning of May 19 finally arrived. After a second attempt the team reached the top. There was happiness, joy, smiles, greetings, and overflowing emotions. Here it was, the sweet moment of victory! During a radio interview the climbers passed on greetings to their family and friends, and thanked everyone who organized this expedition, including Valentyn Symonenko, the federation president, their coaches and sponsors.

After spending 40 minutes on the summit, where they planted the national flags of Ukraine and Nepal, and sponsors’ flags, took photographs and made a video of the historic event, the descent started along the ascent route. The altitude drop of the complete route is 4,200 m with an average gradient of 60 degrees. The route is 21 km long, and its level of difficulty is classed as high.

According to the rules and traditions of alpinism, ascending is considered successful and completed when all the members of the team return to the base camp, which is what happened on May 24. The alpine team was excited and in good spirits.

A new generation of alpinists has appeared in Ukraine, one that is able to conquer summits of all levels of difficulty and continue the exploits of the legendary Ukrainian alpinist Vladyslav Terziul.

The “Ukraine-Himalayas-2007” National Expedition, which took place under the patronage of Ukraine’s Cabinet of Ministers, has confirmed the vast potential of our sportsmen, their professionalism, high psychological and physical preparation, and their ability to reach the goal under the most difficult conditions. The federation is certain that the next Ukrainian alpine victory will further strengthen our state’s international image and recognition as one of the world’s leading alpine countries.

The expedition returned by helicopter to the Nepalese capital Katmandu on May 25, 2007, and arrived in Kyiv on May 29.