A political, rather than esthetic, gesture

Ukrainians are ready to join the initiative put forward by The Day and put on stylish embroidered shirts on Independence Day.

Donning an embroidered shirt on this special day is not a political gesture, as may seem in the light of the recent events. This is a symbolic, and even esthetic, gesture, if you like. An embroidered shirt is nice-looking, comfortable and stylish wear. Moreover, it is a charm and a kind of link with one’s ancestry, as well as an identity marker that outlines the person’s worldview.

The Day has suggested that Ukrainians wear embroidered shirts for Independence Day. This initiative is an important step towards setting up an integral esthetic field in the country. It is a burning issue as the embroidered shirt has again acquired political “coloring” which to some extent eclipses its esthetic, cultural and worldview dimensions. Larysa Ivshyna, editor-in-chief of The Day, has said: “I would very much want the embroidered shirt to finally cease being a political gesture and turn into simply a nice piece of clothing.” This is precisely the reason why we suggest that Ukrainians celebrate Independence Day wearing such a stylish piece of the national costume. Are they ready to support this initiative?

Maria BURMAKA, singer, People’s Artist of Ukraine:

“I support the idea. If Ukrainians wear embroidered shirts for Independence Day, it will be beautiful. To me, the embroidered shirt is a nice piece of clothing, an artwork and a charm. It contains coded symbols, because embroidery conceals deep senses and profound meaning. I have several embroidered shirts, both contemporary and old.

“However, today the embroidered shirt has acquired a kind of political overtone. Thirty years ago in Kharkiv, where few people spoke Ukrainian, to wear an embroidered shirt meant to declare your civic position. Today, the situation seems to be repeating itself, which is sad. The embroidered shirt is a piece of the Ukrainian national costume. It is a nice and esthetic thing; it reaffirms our heritage and our identity as a large people living in our land. If a person dons an embroidered shirt, his or her views and preferences become immediately clear. Meanwhile, the opposition would need to come up with some other ways of counteraction rather than just wearing embroidered shirts. This pertains also to other Ukrainians.”

Bohdan BENIUK, theater and cinema artist, People’s Artist of Ukraine:

“I believe that every conscious citizen of Ukraine understands that Independence Day is a holiday, and one of its mandatory attributes is something that shows that a person is part of the great nation of Ukrainians. That is why wearing an embroidered shirt on Independence Day and Flag Day is quite natural. And not only in the light of recent events.

“We know well that Ukrainians have worn embroidered shirts for large religious holidays. Independence Day is a kind of Christmas – it’s the birth of our state. The embroidered shirt has always evoked an ambiguous reaction of the enemies of the Ukrainian people in its history. The embroidered shirt as a piece of political clothing has long history. No citizen can be outside politics: he must have his own point of view, personal views and opinions on the life of our country. That is why the embroidered shirt is a political thing that shows that we look at our origin and roots. This is a kind of code that speaks volumes about a person. It is a charm that keeps the soul safe from evil forces. To me, it also means an encounter with my mother: my shirts were embroidered by my mother who is no longer with us. And it is an additional factor that pulls me closer to my nation and our ancestors.”

Ostap KRYVDYK, independent analyst, political scientist, activist:

“The embroidered shirt and the Ukrainian language cannot be either a marker of either party, or opposition membership – it is in a totally different dimension. Independence Day is a perfect time to wear one. External forces certainly want Ukraine to become divided along very clear marks and have the state border run along this line. We need to unite, rather than divide, the country with these symbols. I would like to see a conception for modernizing Ukraine in which the embroidered shirt is one of the elements. I would like to see a proposal for a new way of life for the citizens and a new style of governance for the state. I don’t see a strategy in the come-out-in-an-embroidered-shirt-and-protest approach. What’s the next step? Wearing two embroidered shirts to ratchet up the protest? So an embroidered shirt for a holiday is a definite yes, but one for protest is a dubious idea. There must be a different kind of motivation and a positive slogan.

“Our family values and loves embroidered shirts. I have four, and my sister about a dozen. Our family members always wear embroidered shirts for Christmas and Easter.

“The embroidered shirt is a piece of Ukrainian ethnic clothing, and I object to its politicization. Otherwise it appears, absurdly, that if you don’t have one, you are not a patriot, a Ukrainian or opponent to Yanukovych.”

Oles STAROVOIT, member of the Lviv Regional Council:

“As the language issue is being politicized and opposition politicians are unable to protect the Ukrainian language, the public is required to take immediate and effective steps. The Day’s initiative for Ukrainians to identify themselves by wearing embroidered shirts for Independence Day is a great way to reveal the real number of people who care. Not everyone will be able to participate in mass events, but by donning an embroidered shirt each citizen will be able to express his position on the language law which was adopted and signed by Yanukovych. That is why I fully support the idea and will realize it in practice.”

Mariana SAVKA, writer, editor-in-chief, Staroho Leva Publishing House:

“Wearing an embroidered shirt is a very personal matter. Any attempts to turn it into a uniform make me naturally resist the idea.

“Both embroidered shirts that I have come from my mother. She embroidered them when the independence idea was only germinating, and the country, steeped in anxiety, was barely pregnant with it. No canvas for embroidering was sold at the time, and mom rubbed her fingers to the quick as she adopted the standard patterns. I have never bought any other embroidered shirts. I wear them only when I have an internal need to do so. To wear or not to wear a marker of your national identity is an issue in the domain on internal freedom.

“I am not sure I will want to wear one on Independence Day celebrated by a country which is still roaming back roads, failing to understand where its highway is. But I will not love my country less for that or stop wondering at the stupidity and vanity of its statesmen. Incidentally, many of them are also likely to wear embroidered shirts on Independence Day – this is the easiest way to show they are one with the people. Especially before election time.”

Bohdan POLISHCHUK, painter, publisher of the independent handwritten theatre journal Koza:

“Independence Day is precisely the holiday when you should wear an embroidered shirt without hesitation. For centuries it has been an indispensable attribute of all holidays important to the Ukrainian people. It is a powerful symbol of remembering our history and traditions which, incidentally, in perfect harmony with contemporaneity and progress. My wife Olenka and I wear embroidered shirts on Independence Day every year, while she sometimes puts on an entire folk costume. Each one of us has several embroidered shirts. I got one from my father and made another one myself as a diploma project in the arts college. The third one was embroidered and given to me as a present by my wife. It is no great feat to wear an embroidered shirt today, and this is wonderful! This is one of the things that unite people, let them express their civic position and create a festive mood.”

Ihor SICHOVYK, writer, humorist, satirist:

“There are symbols that define the identity of nation, belonging to the same roots, and its cultural level. For Ukrainian people embroidered costume is not only an outward symbol, it also represents the depth of the inner world. It is a kind of mosaic of Ukrainian people’s history, evidence of the indestructibility of the great kin. For many Ukrainians embroidered shirt became an everyday outfit and its popularity continues to grow.

“Today such initiatives are especially important. They unite people, draw a line between those who want to live in a civilized country and those, who pull us back to the scary past. Today, like never before, Ukrainian symbols have to prove that we are the masters in our land. Embroidery and language are the two symbols that identify our state and as long as they are preserved Ukraine will not cease to exist.”

Dmytro ZARUBA, director of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Lifestyle of Ukraine:

“The idea to dress up in embroidered shirts on Independence Day is really interesting and valuable. Of course, I fully support it: when, if not on the Independence Day, every Ukrainian can emphasize his or her attitude to their home land, express their respect. Embroidered costume is a part of our culture and history, it is that something that unites us. Besides embroidered costume is sacred, it is a charm.”

Yevhen PRYKHODKO, journalist-blogger, Kherson:

“Every Ukrainian, if he considers himself to be one, must have a national attribute. Often, when people put on an embroidered shirt on an ordinary day they notice how others react to it in different ways, but mostly positively. The problem is that we see people wearing national clothing very rarely, especially in the south regions, that is why a citizen wearing an embroidered shirt is a strange phenomena but also prominent in a good way. What concerns the Independence Day, taking into account the general regress of national spirit in the recent years and anti-Ukrainian laws of the government, such an idea has to be implemented. Ukrainians should show their patriotic spirit at least in such a simple way, because at this point the nation is not ready for more radical actions.”