In Kamianets

Here should have been a preface. Cinema-lovers might have understood what the given article is about. Its title carries a paraphrase of title of the film In Bruges. This is an absurdist criminal drama directed by Martin McDonagh (joint production of Great Britain and the US), with leading parts brilliantly performed by Colin Farrell and Brendan Gleeson. The film appeared on the world’s cinema screens in 2008, was nominated for Oscar for the best script, and is on the list of the 250 best films by IMDb [Internet Movie Database – Ed.].

Strange as it may seem, I have mentioned this film not for its artistic brilliance, but because the film’s action takes place in one of the most picturesque medieval cities of Western Flanders, Bruges. The context is as follows. Being no less fond of traveling than of cinematography, when I watched In Bruges I was absolutely amazed by the visual beauty of this Belgian town, and made a mental note to go there when the occasion arises, wander along the old streets, trying to guess where one or another scene of the film, which impressed me so much, was shot. Such an occasion has never arisen.

I remembered this accidentally, when the fate of a journalist suddenly granted me a trip to another city, similar to Bruges in its grandeur, beauty, richness in significant monuments and historical importance. It is located many hundreds kilometers closer than the abovementioned town. But I am sure that many people who are fond of discovering unknown cities and places know about it only from rumors, and are unaware of how many positive emotions, joy, and delight one can get, having covered a mere 433 kilometers from Kyiv, in some five hours.

I am speaking about Kamianets-Podilsky, described by Wikipedia as some banal raion center in Khmelnytsky oblast. But it is also called “A Flower on the Stone” and “Podillia’s Pearl.” Jokes apart, the river Smotrych, running across the city, creates by the rocky canyon of its riverbed (witnesses even compare it with the famous Grand Canyon in the US) a grand and picturesque loop, in the form of an omega. The ancient fortress, the Old City, is located on the peninsula created by the loop. It has not been defaced by modern buildings, being constituted solely by old ones, which reflect the cultures of the peoples who have inhabited it in different times.

By the way, the world has only three places with classical examples of fortress-cities situated on a peninsula: Bern, Verona, and Kamianets-Podilsky. The history of the latter is quite impressive: Christian and Muslim cultures are intertwined there in some wonderful and mysterious way. As history tells us, Kamianets-Podilsky was a part of Kyivan Rus’. In the period between the 13th and 14th centuries it used to protect the Galician-Volhynian Princehood, and was conquered by Tartar-Mongols. Since the late 14th century it belonged to Lithuania, and in 1430 it became part of Poland. In 1793, after the Third Partition of Poland, together with Right-Bank Ukraine, it was incorporated into the Russian Empire. And in 1918-21 Kamianets-Podilsky was a military training center and base of the military leadership of the Ukrainian People’s Republic, the last stronghold of the defenders of independent Ukraine.

Each period has left real stories and legends about the people and events that took place in the unique city. Indisputably, it is worth coming there only for the sake of this. Moreover, according to the number of architectural-historical monuments, Kamianets-Podilsky takes the third place in Ukraine after Kyiv and Lviv. Besides, another famous fortress, Khotyn, is located in the suburbs of the city. Over 50 films have been shot within its walls, including Zakhar Berkut, D’Artagnan and Three Musketeers, Taras Bulba. If your reach Bakota — you can use the services of the travel bureau — you will have a chance to see the monastery on rocks, built in 11th century, with its healing mineral springs, and a Crystal Cave, 20 million-years-old, is located on the territory of the village Kryvche.

Besides, the residents of Kamianets-Podilsky are creative people, who prize the originality of their native town. In different seasons Kamianets-Podilsky hosts very interesting festivals: in May there is the Ancient Kamianets-Podillia’s Heart, dedicated to The Day of the City, and the Festival of Aeronautics (I can’t but boast that I have taken part in them, and flew on an aerostat, my pathological cowardice disregarding. My impressions are hard to describe. Incidentally, after my happy landing I was awarded the noble title — Princess Iryna Zakhmarno-Tumanna of Podillia. So, you can address me this way.) Terra Heroika Festival has also become one of the regular events in the Old City. It is a many-colored military-historical festival, which reproduces traditional events, and is attended by dismounted and mounted knights from different countries, carrying spears, cannons, and muskets with them. The witnesses assert that this wonderful show outmatches anyone’s boldest fantasies. The city’s patriots have also invented the Seven Cultures Feast, according to the number of nationalities that have resided in Kamianets-Podilsky in different times. Those are Ukrainians, Russians, Turks, Tartars, Armenians, Jews, Lithuanians, and Poles. The Free Humans Fest has been launched recently — it aims to create a community of personalities fond of music, dances, visual and martial arts, and also take up extreme sports.

The city organizes trainings, hosts concerts and vernissages — everyone will find an activity for themselves. This autumn has become a parade of festivals: recently it witnessed the spectacular closing ceremonies of “Kamianets, A Land Of Heroes,” the international festival of national cultures “The Island of Seven Treasures,” which has been attended by choreographic, singing, and music bands from Ukraine, Russia, Poland, Slovenia, Germany, Armenia, Israel and many other countries. The festival Rus’ Gates reproduced, in a large-scale and bright manner, the events of the 13th and 14th centuries. A beer feast, which was born 200 years ago in Bavarian Munich, and is known as Oktober Fest, has been launched some time ago. This year it has united its efforts with the Aeronautics Fiesta “Meeting the Sun.”

I will tell about this fact in a more detailed way, because it was the reason of my trip to Kamianets-Podilsky. I will tell you right away that not all of my acquaintances welcome the feasts that come to our country from the West, where they have been celebrated for a long time, and loved both by adults and children. As you might have guessed, those are Oktober Fest, Halloween, and probably St.Valentine’s Day. Honestly, I cannot get why my friends dislike these common to mankind and joyful feasts? Does not our country have any beer-lovers? Do not we remember the fearful and magnetic children’s tales about “a very dark room”? Haven’t we ever fallen in love? Don’t we love anybody? If we ourselves haven’t invented analogical occasions, it would be a sin not to use other peoples’ experience — one must admit that they are more likable than May 1 and November 7, which we now celebrate.

It has turned out that the residents of Kamianets-Podilsky have the same opinion, therefore they have decided to attract tourists to their wonderful city for the Autumn Feast of Beer. It has taken place on one of the central streets of the city, Soborna Street, near the hotel 7 Days. They have undergone serious preparations: besides the traditional cold beer flowing like water, one could warm oneself up with hot porter with honey and cinnamon — mulled wine was an alternative for those less fond of beer — and taste traditional Bavarian snacks that are an indispensable attribute of such feasts.

What was a pleasant surprise for me personally is that along with the Ukrainian names of the dishes, their German equivalents were also mentioned. This is a real pearl for food-lovers. One can please one’s family, diversifying the daily routine with real Bavarian food, without wasting precious time looking for recipes. I can predict the commentaries of skeptics: say, there was no need in organizing this event, because sitting, drinking a glass of beer and watching TV can hardly be called a feast. Yet the residents of Kamianets-Podilsky are experienced organizers, and they know how to attract people. That is why from morning till late night the guests did not have the slightest desire to go home. An eloquent professional anchor maintained the festive moods of the guests in a filigree manner. He conducted competitions on the history of the Oktober Fest, announced competitions in arm wrestling, performances of break dancers and harmonica players, young music bands, and also a band of folk singers who impressed even the experts with their voices.

Such are the impressions produced by the festival. Persons who distinguished themselves during the festival received prizes — beer, of course. When the night fell, the audience uttered a scream because of the multicolored concert number performed by quite audacious girls, in my opinion, who played with fire. Even the small pauses during the festival were well-planned: one could hear German melodies, popular on beer feasts, and native ones. When the concert part came to an end, the discotheque of rock-n-roll and music of the 1980s began.

I watched for a long time a beautiful girl who inspired everyone around her. When her company started making compliments to her for her spirit, I joined them. But I was greatly amazed to learn that those young people not only came from Kyiv, like me, but also were my fellows. Thirty employees of the Ukraina TV channel decided to have a rest after an honest working week: they did not think long, got on a train and went to Kamianets-Podilsky. They said that they had much fun — the emotions would last till their next trip. Judging from this closely bound company, a new trip is on their doorstep.

I must say that I fully support them, and advise all people who are quick on their toes, not to wait for the New Year and Christmas holidays, but search on the Internet and go on the nearest weekend to Chernihiv or Pereiaslav-Khmelnytsky, Kachanivka or Poltava. Travel expenses are low, but you will have an extremely good time. This appeal is from my heart. If my Kamianets-Podilsky report was interesting for you, I will add some incentive: going to Kamianets-Podilsky on a weekend, you can easily visit Chernivtsi or Khemlnytsky, as they are located quite nearby.