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Our fashion industry makes sensation for Georgia

Sofia TCHKONIA: “It is hard to name as many good world-class fashion designers as can be found in Ukraine”
05 November, 17:40
Photo by Artem SLIPACHUK, The Day

Without exaggeration, setting Georgia as an example has become trendy in Ukraine. Saying, look how they reformed the police. Or learn from them how to fight corruption. How to implement economic reforms, or work with investors. But fashion is something Georgians learn from us (read more in the interview below).

In fact, this is one of the reasons why The Day decided to dedicate more attention to a Georgian offstage project “Georgia Art Fashion Space” in the intense schedule of this year’s Ukrainian Fashion Week (UFW).

The other reason is the very curator of this project, Sofia TCHKONIA, also the founder of a contest for young fashion designers “Be Next” and of the international platform “Art Georgia,” jury member at the international biennale of fashion illustrations IMAGO, author of the documentary project Icons and Muses featuring famous couturiers, writers, and artists. Tchkonia created Art and Fashion Foundation and ArtGeorgia Paris agency. She cooperates with international fashion industry’s mass media: Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, L’Officiel, Dazed and Confused, ID Magazine, Marie Claire, Elle, Interview. Also, she takes a special interest in Ukrainian fashion. Read The Day’s exclusive interview recorded during the 35th UFW to learn which Ukrainian designers and why Tchkonia considers the stars of modern fashion.

“Unfortunately, fashion is not supported by the state in any way in Georgia. Of course, they started doing something on the Ministry of Culture’s level now. They are trying to do something. But Georgia is a small country. And fashion requires big money. In order to develop fashion as an industry in Georgia, investments must be involved and educational institutions must be developed. As of today, we only have the Academy of Arts, which requires significant funding. It is situated in a unique historic building, which now is in an emergency state. Jointly with the Ministry of Culture, we have created a special foundation to save this building and give young and talented artists, designers, and architects an opportunity to create and learn, because fashion has no future without education.

“Another important aspect, which enables fashion’s development as an industry, is financial support for budding designers. No matter how talented you are, if you don’t have the money or people willing to give it to you, it will be hard to become famous in the fashion world. Success in fashion industry is half creativity and half financing and marketing. One does not exist without the other in fashion.

“So, these two aspects are something Georgia seriously needs to work on.”

But nevertheless, Georgia has already taken a serious step towards high fashion by joining the international fashion weeks’ calendar. Georgia Fashion Week is a rather young project. In your view, how seriously can it be taken today by international buyers and designers?

“Certainly, I welcome this initiative. It is great that fashion weeks are taking place in the country. Despite the fact that many treat the young fashion weeks in a rather critical manner, I consider them to be extremely important. This project helps designers, it motivates them to show themselves and their work. But again, we reach the conclusion that government support is needed.

“Is Georgia appealing for foreign buyers and guests? At the moment, it is not. But correct work in this direction will yield result. Ukraine and its Ukrainian Fashion Week is an example of that. It is my first time at this event. And I admire how Ukrainian designers have grown. Only a few years ago we knew nothing about Ukrainian fashion, but now we know a lot of designers by names. Their works became well-known in Milan and Paris. And this literally happened in a matter of several years, just before our eyes.”

I would like to point out that it happened without government support.

“That is the point. I want to emphasize that Ukrainian designers should be set as an example for Georgian ones, because so far Georgia has talented young people. And that’s it. We have actually created this contest for young designers, “Be Next,” to help them develop. We are providing a platform where they can reveal themselves. We are looking for funds to support their creative work. We send them to study. Of course, the future depends on each person individually and how serious their attitude is.”

Which Ukrainian designers are popular in Georgia? Whose creations are Georgian fashionistas fond of?

“I cannot talk about Georgia in general. But I can name the ones I personally like. These are the duo of Kamenska and Kononova, Litkovska, Bevza, Paskal, Anna Oktiabr. I think, Chervinska has a huge potential. Jean Gritsfeldt’s works are interesting. Besides being a talented designer, he knows how to present himself. The skill of presenting, or ‘selling,’ is crucial for a designer’s success.

“You have plenty of designers I like. It is hard to name as many good world fashion designers as can be found in Ukraine. It is a great asset for the country.”

You are not just a guest at the UFW, but a curator of one of the offstage projects. Please, tell us about it and your experiences related to it in more detail.

“Unfortunately, I dedicated less attention to this project than I wanted to, because we started working on two large projects in Paris. And I simply did not have time. Therefore, since I was not present here in person and did not even know where the project was to be implemented, I had to choose designers who presented their works at random.

“We presented four Georgian designers. And I think this is very good. It is a great experience for them. They are deeply satisfied with their trip to Kyiv. And the huge interest that was displayed towards them is crucial as well.

“It is very important for me too, since I always represent my country, regardless of where I am and what I do. Though I am not a fan of various patriotic noises, I’d like to say that I want Georgia to be a European country. European in the sense of cultural development and progress of its citizens.”

You mentioned there was interest in works by Georgian designers; how it displayed?

“Firstly, a lot of people showed up. Ordinary visitors came up, asked questions. And all this is very important, because we create fashion for people, for those who have to buy and wear it.”

You have created a lot of well-known art projects. What are you working on right now?

“I love working. Some are even laughing at my restlessness. I have plenty of projects now. The main one is located in Paris. We created a foundation and an agency which help young talented people – artists and designers – from all over the world. We promote them. Very influential people from various countries help me with this. And I am pleased with it, because these people are already tired of fashion. But when they hear new names from me, they become extremely interested.

“Another project of mine is my films. They are vital for me. I combine two worlds in them: those of fashion and cinematography.

“And the third project is a contest of young designers. We have already started the new selection.

“I am pleased by the fact that a lot of Ukrainian designers want to participate in our projects: in competitions and in my Paris project. By the way, whatever I’m doing, I always invite Ukrainian designers.”

Do you invite them to participate in films too? Are you planning on shooting a story about someone from Ukraine’s fashion world?

“I hope this will happen. My project is about people who inspired creativity or created something themselves in the 21st century.

“Kyiv is a magical city for me. It has preserved that very spirit of life which many capitals have already lost. Believe me, I know what I’m saying. I travel a lot and live in various countries. Many were afraid to go to Ukraine for this UFW. My friends tried to make me change my mind. But I wasn’t afraid. Because people are the essence of any city. And they are simply fantastic in Kyiv. You cannot find anything similar in any other city.”

P.S. The Day expresses gratitude to the Ukrainian Fashion Week organizers for help in preparing the interview.

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