Steppe therapy

Recently, Wikipedia selected 10 Natural Wonders of Ukraine, three of which are located in Donetsk oblast: regional landscape park “Zuievsky,” Ukrainian steppe natural reserve “Stone Graves,” and a cliff-like chalk outcropping in Kramatorsk. However, these are not all the unique places in Donetsk region. The Day published numerous articles about the majesty of Ukrainian steppe and its natural resources. Today, our Route No.1 brings us to the Kleban-Byk Landscape Park.

In moments like this you regret that no words, photos or video can capture the smells. Especially during the blooming period. Then you can feel the scent of every flower that has bloomed, contemplate grass that just turned green. Steppe is, perhaps, the best therapy for all problems. Here you can feel the harmony with nature. In short, if somewhere there is the Ukrainian Zen, mentioned by Kasha Saltsova, front singer of Krykhitka Tsakhes band, this Zen can be found here – in steppe.

Last year The Day wrote about the natural reserve “Khomutovsky Step” in the south of Donetsk oblast. This time we went to the northern part of Donetsk steppe – Kleban-Byk Landscape Park. Its territory takes up 1,974 hectares.

CREATED BY NATURE

It seems that none of the artists is able to convey what was created by nature in Kleban-Byk Park. Even burdocks here are nearly two feet high. Hills that twist, calm the Kleban-Byk Reservoir, that resembles blood vessels. Fragrant herbs and colorful flowers that are combined with bright brown soil create an incredible view. Steppe is a true source for inspiration for a designer, because so many shades of various colors have blended in here. Only the green color is presented by countless shades and we were able at least a dozen right away: juicy color of fur trees and grass, bright light-green lizard, light-green flower leaves, dark green burdocks, wild strawberry leaves, and gray-green feather grass too. Here, in Kleban-Byk Park you can see xeric Pseudoceles flora, spots of virgin petrophilous fescue-feather grass steppes. There are also plants listed in the Red Book (hairy, Dnipro, Lessing, and Ukrainian feather grass; certain species of wormwood, fritillary, varieties of tulips, and meshed saffron) and some medical herbs that are protected by the park’s administration.

In my mind I can clearly see a picture of how, when I was a child, together with my parents we would go to the steppe (which stretched not far from my grandma’s house) and gathered thyme. I remember my mother dried it and added to tea for colds. By the way, in time of Kyivan Rus’ this herb was called Virgin Mary herb, incense herb, or marjoram. It was used to fumigate cattle, fishing, and hunting gear – people believed that this would bring success in the fields. Thyme was also used as protection from evil spirits, people wore it in amulets on their necks, icons were decorated with this herb on the day of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin. That smell of thyme was captured by my mind so strongly that I, probably, will never forget it. Thyme in Kleban-Byk Park is just as charming.

In general, according to the geo-botanical studies conducted in 2005, there are nine formations of flora in the central parts of the landscape park, which include 29 plant associations.

IN THE “FOSSILIZED” FOREST

Trees are one of the “highlights” of the park. In addition to living green giants, you can find fossilized trees up to a meter in diameter – the remnants of Araucaria trees – remains of the Carboniferous period (250 million years ago). At first it may seem that you came across the remains of a burned tree. But in fact they are stone. If you look closer, you will probably see fossilized insects on these stone-trees. It is believed that these trees are characteristic of arid and very hot climate. This means that tropical plants could also grow here. The “fossil” elements could be formed due to the strong winds that uprooted the trees and carried them to the river. There, as a result of natural processes, they escaped the influence of oxygen and, thus, charring.

Fossilized trees are a part of the geological nature monument “Druzhkivka Fossilized Trees.”

Another gift of nature is the Kleban-Byk outcropping – an area spanning 60 hectares where deep-lying geological rock comes to the surface. The outcropping was formed as a result of tectonic movements of the Earth’s crust. According to some sources, a sea and mountains could be located in this place in the distant past. Everyone can picture it in their imagination. If this was indeed so, the area was probably one of the most picturesque places on the face of the Earth.

What we were not able to reach was the Bilokuzmynivka Cretaceous crags that reach 25 meters in height. They are, no doubt, another beautiful place in the landscape park. This will be the motivation to return to the park: we will bring along tents and come with a firm intention to comb the steppe up and down.

MAN: A FRIEND OR AN ENEMY?

The administration, which is located in the village of Oleksandro-Kalynove, says that animals live their lives here naturally in the wild. No one limits their space; there are no fences or enclosures. But they are still quite easily frightened. Hares, herons, roe deer, wild boars, and other animals roam the territory of the park.

The fact that the animals are easily frightened can also be explained considering that we have come here precisely in the midst of their mating season. When we first approached the water, we saw a beautiful couple of swans, but they would not come close to us. On the contrary, they disappeared from our view before the camera could focus on them. They probably had other things to attend to. Butterflies and dragonflies were also mating and were fluttering here and there in front of our eyes. Meanwhile, all varieties of worms engaged in their intimate affairs right in the middle of the road without any trace of shame.

Kleban-BykPark is an hour’s drive from Donetsk, located not far from Oleksandro-Kalynove and village Katerynivska. It is impossible to pass it as you will certainly want to see huge figures of dinosaurs welcoming you. Entrance fee to the landscape park is 5 hryvnias, and a tour costs 60 hryvnias. The park also provides services to fishermen. The locals can enter free of charge and they know the smallest trails. They like making shashlik in the park. We have come across several “traces” suggesting this activity. Of course, it is nice to relax in the open air, but a different place should be reserved for shashlik. And no one has cancelled the rule of cleaning up after you have eaten. The steppe is beautiful in that it is wild nature, and it should not suffer from human interference.

Now, once you have come to Kleban-Byk Park, you can stop by Oleksandro-Kalynove, where the local community decided to embrace green tourism and fixed a beach and village houses. There is also an excellent ethnic museum there which has already given rise to legends.

Photos by Viktor KORVIK, Donetsk Photos courtesy of the administration of the Kleban-Byk Landscape Park